Build a Basic Cabinet, Part 2: Doors And Drawers

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In the second installment of Matt Whiteis’ cabinet-building series, the focus shifts from the cabinet itself to the components that define both the functionality and the finished look of the piece: the doors, drawers, and adjustable shelving. This guide provides a masterclass in building Shaker-style face-frame cabinet doors and drawers, emphasizing precision measurements, safe tool operation, and those “pro-tip” tricks that elevate a project from amateur to true craftsman.

1. Planning and Precision Measurement
For this project, Matt uses a 1/2-inch overlay design, making it easier to fit doors and drawers (as opposed to inset style with an exact reveal).
Calculating Door and Drawer Dimensions
The process starts with the cut sheet, which serves as the blueprint for the entire phase.
• Stiles and Rails: Matt uses poplar for the door and drawer frames (vertical stiles and horizontal rails) due to its affordability, stability, and paint-ready surface.
• Panels: He uses 1/4-inch MDF for the inserts because it doesn’t expand or contract like solid wood, preventing the paint from cracking at the joints.
• Calculating Width: For a 26 1/8-inch opening with two doors, he adds 1 inch (for the 1/2-inch overlay on each side) and then subtracts the width of the stiles to find the length of the horizontal rails.

2. Milling and Joinery
With the dimensions set, the focus turns to the SawStop table saw and router table.
Preparing the Stock
Matt starts with “four-quarter” (1-inch nominal) material and planes it down to a precise 11/16-inch thickness. This ensures that all components are perfectly uniform before they ever touch a blade.
The Tongue and Groove Process
Creating the Shaker look requires a tongue-and-groove joint.
• Tongue First: Matt recommends cutting the tongues (the “cope” cut) on the ends of the rails first to prevent tear-out in the finished parts.
• The Groove: He cuts the grooves using a 1/4-inch bit on the router table. A critical safety tip emphasized here is keeping the material tight against the fence to ensure the groove is perfectly centered and straight.

3. Assembly of Doors and Drawers
Once the stiles and rails are milled, assembly begins.
The “No-Mess” Glue Philosophy
While many woodworkers use an abundance of glue, Matt advocates for a “flush and tight” approach, avoiding excess glue squeeze-out that can interfere with sanding and finishing.
Squaring the Drawer Box
The drawer box is constructed from pre-finished UV maple, a time-saving material that comes with a durable finish already applied. To ensure the box is perfectly square, he uses a nifty trick: pinning the box against a known square surface (like a workbench corner) and using 23-gauge pin nails to hold it while the glue sets.

4. Hardware and Installation
Hardware installation is often where DIY projects go awry, but this guide simplifies the process with templates and specific measurements.
Concealed Hinges
To install the soft-close concealed hinges:

  1. Drilling the Cup: He drills the holes 3 1/2 inches from the top and bottom of the door.
  2. The Template Trick: Matt demonstrates how to make a simple scrap-wood template (3 1/2″ x 7/8″) to ensure every hinge is placed identically without tedious measuring on every door.
  3. Hinge Screws: Use #6 x 5/8-inch screws to attach the hinge to the door, ensuring you don’t drill through the face of the Shaker panel.
    Undermount Drawer Slides
    For a premium feel, Matt prefers to use 18-inch undermount soft-close slides.
    • The 1/16-inch Gap: A pro-tip shared is to set the slides about 1/16 of an inch back from the face frame. This ensures that when the drawer closes, it pulls tight against the cabinet for a seamless look.
    • Notching the Box: Undermount slides require specific notches and holes in the back of the drawer box for the locking mechanisms.

5. The Finishing Touch – Adjustable Shelving
No cabinet is complete without storage. The adjustable shelf is made from maple and features a 1 1/2-inch “facing” strip to give it a thick, high-end appearance.
• The Shelf Pins: The shelf itself is cut 1/4-inch narrower than the interior of the cabinet (28 1/4″ for a 28 1/2″ opening) to allow room for the shelf pins.
• The “Pocket” Edge: Matt attaches the face frame using a pocket-hole jig, providing a strong, hidden mechanical connection.

6. Safety and Efficiency: The SawStop Advantage
Throughout the video, Matt reflects on the role the SawStop table saw plays in his shop. Beyond the life-saving flesh-sensing technology, he praises this saw for its power and repeatability. When ripping dozens of identical stiles and rails, having a fence that stays true and a motor that doesn’t bog down is essential for achieving effortless cuts.

Summary of Key Measurements:
• Material Thickness: 11/16″ for doors/drawers; 1/2″ for drawer boxes.
• Overlay: 1/2″ all around.
• Nails: 23-gauge pin nails for frames; 1 1/4″ nails for drawer boxes.
• Drawer Depth: 4″ deep for this specific configuration.
By following this systematic approach—from the detailed cut sheet to the final adjustment of the soft-close hinges—any woodworker can produce cabinetry that rivals professional shops.

If you missed Part 1 of Matt’s cabinetmaking demonstration, watch it here: